White Powdery Mildew
by Sirius Fourside
Have you seen white spots on your leaves? Are your leaves dusted with round patches of powder that looks like flour?
If so, you’re most likely dealing with White Powdery Mildew, also known as White Powdery Mold or just “WPM” to cannabis growers.
White Powdery Mildew is usually a minor annoyance that can be easily fixed, but if you don’t catch it early, WPM can turn into a catastrophe that ruins an entire marijuana harvest!
For those who haven’t experienced WPM, imagine circular patches of a living, breathing, fuzzy, flour-looking substance showing up on your plant’s leaves without any warning. From there, the mildew can easily spread to other leaves and buds, rendering the buds unusable.
You’ll see “powder” on your leaves…
White Powdery Mildew has such an easy time spreading that even careful growers who take proper precautions can still experience it.
Luckily, the issue in the picture above was easily resolved because it was caught early and because White Powdery Mildew is completely reversible up to a point.
This article will arm you with the information to stop WPM’s proliferation before it even has a chance to take hold!
What IS White Powdery Mildew?
White Powdery Mildew is a rapidly reproducing (both sexually AND asexually) fungus who only knows how to do two things:
Eat your plants
Make more White Powdery Mildew
Fortunately, White Powdery Mildew is easy to spot since it creates white patches of fungal growth that stand out against the green leaves of a cannabis plant.
It can be removed from plants with proper treatment if spotted early on, but any buds with WPM should be discarded as they most likely contain many more spores than your eyes can see.
What causes White Powdery Mildew?
WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water. Having a grow area with high humidity is all WPM needs to get started. This seems to be a bit problematic since young cannabis plants grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity usually only becomes an issue when it’s combined with the next cause (low/no airflow).
People who live in environments with extremely high humidity (such as the southern US or anywhere in the UK) can purchase a dehumidifier to control humidity in the grow area. This is especially important during the flowering phase when humidity needs to be much lower (45% rh) to prevent rampant growth of WPM and bud mold.
White Powdery Mildew has a hard time settling in a grow room where the air is being moved. High humidity will give WPM the conditions it needs to survive, but poor airflow is what gives it the ability to settle down in the first place. In fact, a small (preferably oscillating) fan moving air in a grow area will prevent the vast majority of White Powdery Mildew woes.
If you have WPM spores in your grow area and the air in grow area is never exchanged for fresh air, the spores get multiple chances to land on your plants and reproduce. This happens most often in conditions where cannabis is being grown in a closed, unventilated space – such as a closet – and precautions aren’t taken to exchange old stale air for new fresh air.
Leaves that are touching each other will form moisture between them, and thus they become more likely to contract WPM. Untrained bushy/leafy plants with lots of new vegetative growth are especially prone since they will often have their leaves mashed up against each other as they try to reach toward the light.
Advanced growers can defoliate some of the fan leaves that are completely shaded from the grow light to make fewer choice landing spots for White Powdery Mildew. Also, defoliation frees up energy for the plant to use when done correctly and increases yields! See our article on defoliation for more info.
How to Eliminate White Powdery Mildew
As I mentioned earlier, I recently had a battle with White Powdery Mildew. Rather, it might have been a battle if I noticed it later or waited to fix the problem. That’s the one good thing about WPM: in most cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without harming your plants.
There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM. Among the effective treatments are:
Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)
Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)
Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)
Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon of 35% H202 per gallon of water)
SM-90 (1:5 ratio of SM-90 to water)
Rather than go into these methods, I’m going to give you the simple strategy I use that gets rid of White Powdery Mildew on the first try, every time! Here’s my trusted 3-Step White Powdery Mold cure:
Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves – Get some water (tap water works fine) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to gently wipe the mildew off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on them. Using a wet cloth will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note: While it isn’t necessary to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one leaf to another.
Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation – Even if you have absolutely no airflow or ventilation in your grow room, having just two fans will drastically reduce your chances of encountering WPM while also benefitting your plant’s overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible and should gently blow air over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves which will make it hard for WPM to settle down. The second fan should be in your grow room pointing outward to exchange old air with fresh air. Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and in turn, pull new air into the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated, then kicked out. Keep in mind that two fans is a minimum .
Treat the infected plant with one of the options below to kill spores prevent future growth – Mix up your treatment of choice in a clean sprayer/mister. We recommend Lost Coast Plant Therapy (1oz/2btsp per gallon of water) or GrowSafe (2oz/4tbsp per gallon of water) as a safe second option . Make sure to consult the instructions on your treatment of choice to find the recommended dosage. Wait until just before your lights for off for the day and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves even if you don’t see WPM on them!
There you have it! If you end up running into White Powdery Mildew, give this advice a shot and you won’t have to deal with it past that first day. If you do end up using these steps, feel free to let us know if it helped you or not, or how you did it differently. When growers know just a little bit about this plant disease, it doesn’t have a chance!
White Powdery Mildew Defense
What’s the easiest way to fight against White Powdery Mildew?
Have it completely outgunned!
Get the right stuff to let White Powdery Mildew know that your grow room is off limits!
Lost Coast Plant Therapy – Kills WPM as well as a bunch of other pests and it’s safe for flowers, pets and people!
GrowSafe – Another safe-for-buds pesticide that kills WPM and other pests. OMRI listed as organic!
Note: SM-90 is no longer available! Find out more here: What happened to SM-90?
Handheld Mister/Sprayer – A mister is awesome for applying treatment. Also, it’s the best way to foliar feed your plants!
Bonus! Papaya cannabis strain – The strain Papaya is potent, flowers early, and – most importantly – is disease resistant!
White Powdery Mildew (aka White Powdery Mold) can be the cause of white spots on your leaves that looks like patches of flour. Learn how to get rid of it!
White spots on fan leaves?!
Have you noticed white spots on your fan leaves or stems lately? Have you noticed leaves with white spots that look like small round patches of powdered sugar?
If so, then I may have bad news for you, this isn’t fairy dust left behind from your guardian weed angel, this is the sign of either a fungal disease or an aphid/spider mite infestation – but don’t panic.
If you haven’t seen bugs and your an indoor grower it’s most likely just White Powdery Mildew which is actually pretty common! and easy to fix if done quick enough.
As mentioned above, if you’re growing indoors, in a clean environment, what’s covering your leaves is most likely White Powdery Mildew, unless you are growing outdoors, the white dusting could be a sign of other problems such as Spider Mites, which love to lay eggs on the leaves, looking very similar to WPM at first glance, left untreated both can and will devastate crops.
I’ll explain how you can tell the difference between WPM and spider mites, how WPM is caused and how to get rid of it successfully.
What Is White Powdery Mildew?(WPM)
White powdery mildew is a fungal disease that only exists to eat, reproduce and live another day. WPM is quite literally a mold, that grows and leeches from the nutrients in your plants and will eventually cripple the plant if not stopped.
Often occurring due to poor air circulation and high humidity levels, the fungus develops a strong ecosystem within the humidity and shade of the canopy but it can be easily fixed if you catch it early enough – left untreated, WPM can turn into a catastrophe and ruin an entire crop.
How to identify WPM?
- Plants infected with mildew look as if they have been dusted with flour/sugar.
- Powdery mildew typically starts off as circular, powdery white spots.
- WPM typically covers the upper part of the leaves, however, might grow on the underside of the leaves.
- The lower leaves are usually affected first, giving the impression that a sudden outburst has bloomed overnight when it fact the fungus would have been “setting up shop” the whole time. The most affected leaves tend to be towards the bottom of the plant.
- Leaves can also twist, dry and break.
How to control & eliminate WPM?
The main cause of WPM is high humidity – usually as a result of poor air circulation, cannabis plants require a RH level of 40 – 60% with air circulation, remove the air and you can be guaranteed that WPM will colonise.
Start by closely inspecting each individual plant and carefully remove any affected leaves, be careful to not let infected leaves come into contact with unaffected leaves, dispose of all infected leaves separately to be burnt, seriously – burn them.
Once you are confident that you have removed all infected leaves, I would also recommend that you remove the first 1 – 2 inches of soil as it’s likely that spores have fallen into the soil and replace it with new, clean soil.
Now you will need to treat your plants with a natural fungicide to kill the remaining spores and stop it from coming back again.
Natural Fungicides for WPM:
Fungicides can be easily made at home by filling with the help of a hand pump sprayer, a few popular solutions involve:
- Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)
- Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)
- Neem Oil* (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)
- Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)
- Trifecta Crop Control Powdery Mildew Remover
*Add a drop of washing up liquid to prevent the oil from separating with the water inside the handpump, otherwise, the oil will spray out at a full concentration as a result of sitting on top of the water.
Apply a heavy foliar spray at night time before the lights go off to both the top and underside of the leaves, repeating this process daily. It’s important to wait until the lights are due to go off because the water droplets can be magnified under the intense lights and burn your leaves.
Try to not spray too much of the fungicide solution onto the mature buds because they are oils and can stick around for a while,
Disease Resistant Strains
If your growing environment is susceptible to mold or other diseases, did you know there are mould-resistant cannabis strains that exist?
White spots on fan leaves?! Have you noticed white spots on your fan leaves or stems lately? Have you noticed leaves with white spots that look like small round patches of powdered sugar? If