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hawaiian baby woodrose seeds extraction

Kash’s Advanced LSA Extraction

Note: This page is a transcription of Kash’s Advanced LSA Extraction tek [1] . The content is to remain accurate as such.

Contents

  • 1 Pure LSA Extraction, Visually Active with no Nausea or Bodyload
    • 1.1 Procedure
      • 1.1.1 Comments
    • 1.2 Dosage Information
    • 1.3 Pictures
  • 2 Reference

Pure LSA Extraction, Visually Active with no Nausea or Bodyload

Procedure

Procedure for Clean Liquid LSA Extract
1. Pulverize your seeds into a powder using a coffee grinder or your method of choice.
2. Thoroughly mix in a glass the seed powder and 100 ml of acetone. Mix constantly for 2-3 hrs with a magnetic stirrer, or soak/mix 6 hours in a jar by hand.
3. After this, filter solution and set aside acetone extract in a glass and cover with plastic wrap to prevent early evaporation. Put seed mush back into the original cup and cover with 100 ml new acetone.
4. Repeat steps 3-4 two more times so you have atleast 3 extractions (can do more if desired). After third extraction, discard seed mush and combine the extracts into an evaporation dish/bowl. Set up a fan blowing on the extraction to speed evaporation. Doesn’t take too long. Evap to dryness, making sure there is no more acetone smell.
5. Mix in a glass 100 ml distilled water and a pinch of citric acid (pH 3-5). Add to the dry crude LSA extract and mix well for 10 minutes. Not everything will dissolve. Filter out the solids. There should now be 100 ml of aqueous LSA citrate.
6. Defat this solution with 50 ml naptha, mixing well for 10 minutes. Seperate layers with a 10 ml syringe and discard naptha. Repeat. Make sure the second time that there is no remaining naptha floating in your LSA extract after defat.
7. Now its time to freebase the LSA so it can be extracted from the water layer. Add a small amount of ammonia (around 1 ml) to solution until it changes to a light yellow color. PH should be roughly 9-10.
8. Quickly add 50 ml toluene or DCM to the solution and mix well for 15-20 minutes. After, seperate the layers with syringe and set aside the 50 ml of toluene or DCM in a glass. Repeat this step 1 or 2 more times depending on how scrupulous you want to be. Afterwards, discard your yellow/green water layer.
9. Now with your combined toluene or DCM extracts, set them to evaporate in an evaporation dish/bowl with the aid of a fan. This again shouldnt take too long, and you end up with a pure white crystal residue once dry. This could be consumed, but will oxidize pretty quickly over a few days if left out of solution. It turns increasingly tan as an indicator of oxidation.
10. Once your pure extract is dry and there is absolutely no smell of solvent in your evap dish, add 10 ml distilled H2O and 5 ml 75% drinkable ethanol. Sprinkle in a pinch of tartaric acid and mix thoroughly for 10 minutes. Filter this, and store in a vial away from heat and light.
Comments

During evaporation steps, it is ok to apply mild heat to aid evaporation. Using a heat pad or water bath works well. Putting it on the stove is not mild heat. and absolutely no open flames! Organic solvents are highly flammable.

This product of clean liquid LSA extract glows bright blue under black light and is recommended to be combined with a small amount of peppermint oil 20 minutes before consuming. If solution turns milky after peppermint oil addition, add a little alcohol to increase solubility. Impure extractions recipes can leave you with stomach cramps and vasoconstriction, not to mention nausea, and the effects may not be very fun. A pure clean LSA extraction however. Absolutely no nausea or bodyload. It is a semi euphoric dreamy feeling psychedelic similar but different/less potent than LSD lasting about 6-10hrs, and can produce visuals of tracers, colorful symbols, and geometric patterns. Good luck to all and I hope this tek creates memorable experiences.

Dosage Information

LSA is a mid-duration psychedelic entheogen that lasts about 6-10 hours. The experience varies greatly on how the entheogen is consumed whether it is in the form of raw seeds or extracted. The exact nature of the LSA experience is debated, as experiences vary with each person. LSA tends to produce a dreamlike state with mild to significant visions and can be accompanied by euphoria, sedation, nausea, and vasoconstriction. Raw LSA containing seeds tend to bring on much more of the side-effects than cleaned extracts. Peppermint oil is often combined with LSA extracts leading to a more positive experience, though the exact mechanism for this phenomenon is unknown. Some believe it to be the formation of LSH, an unstable lysergic compound more closely resembling LSD, though this topic is hotly disputed.

It is difficult to accurately measure doses of LSA extract, since potency can vary. In general you can get a rough idea by comparing the ratio of seeds to liquid extract volume. A small amount of peppermint oil should be added to the LSA extract 20 minutes prior to consuming. While dosages vary for everyone, I believe this to be a fairly accurate scale of dosage for the extraction procedure:

  • Threshold 50 seeds worth

Pictures

Here’s a picture of final evap and a vial of clear LSA extract under black light.

Kash’s Advanced LSA Extraction Note: This page is a transcription of Kash’s Advanced LSA Extraction tek [1] . The content is to remain accurate as such. Contents 1 Pure LSA

Hawaiian baby woodrose seeds extraction

HBWR: To dose, you don’t have to remove all the shell, but just take a pocket knife and scrape all the “dark-brown” stuff off until the seed is completely a “creme” color.

Items you will need:

  • 128 HBWR seeds (No hulls); seeds only. Or 3,500 MGseeds.
  • A 50ml liquor bottle. These are the small ‘airplane’-sized ones. It should state 50ml on it.
  • A quantity of non-polar solvent. Coleman’s White gas is perfect.
  • 190 proof Everclear, or Vodka. Ethanol. (Bacardi 151)
  • A small funnel comes in handy.
  • A couple small jars with good lids.
  • Some coffee filters.

Extraction Instructions:

  1. Grind the seeds to a powder in a coffee grinder. Place the powder into a small jar and pour in enough of the White gas to fully cover the seeds. You can’t really use too much, but leave enough room so it shakes well. Screw on the lid and shake well for a few minutes. Let it sit for an hour or so, shaking every so often. Shaking is good.
  2. Pour the seed / solvent solution through a coffee filter and let it drain. Putting the coffee filter into a funnel first works well. The solvent is no longer needed but can be re-used, so save it. Spread out the seed mush on the coffee filter which it is in, on a plate or something, and let the seeds fully dry out. You should smell no solvent when it’s fully evaporated. It may take a couple of hours. Don’t breathe the solvent fumes, if you can help it.
  3. Once the seeds are fully dried place the powder into a clean small jar, with a good tight fitting lid. Fill the 50ml liquor bottle with your Ethanol (this is to measure it) and then dump that amount into the small jar with the seed powder. Shake well. This should sit for 3 days and shake it whenever you think of it.
  4. Okay 3 days have passed, it’s almost time. Again, stick a coffee filter in a funnel and then pour the Ethanol / Seed solution into the filter. Let it drain thoroughly. Once it’s close you can squeeze out excess alcohol, but be careful not to break the filter. You can now discard the seeds, as the good stuff is in the alcohol solution that’s left.
  5. Now pour the solution into the 50ml liquor bottle and let it sit for a couple of hours. Any seed powder remaining in the solution will settle to the bottom. Once it has, pour off the alcohol, rinse the seed crap out of the bottle, and pour the alcohol solution back in. Add enough of the clean alcohol to fill the bottle and you’re done.
  6. You now have 50ml of drinkable alcohol containing the extract from 150 HBWR seeds, which should be a yellowish, clear liquid, that looks much like tequila.
  7. Normal dosage of HBWR is 5-12 seeds, MG about 200-400 seeds and it’s easy to measure. You can either get an oral syringe at any drug store that has a 1-5ml gradated gauge on the side, or use measuring spoons. 1tsp=5ml of liquid. 1ml of the ‘tincture’ = 3 seeds. I’ve found that 3ml of the liquid works very well. Mix with water, or anything else.
  8. This method works very well, is easy to dose, easy to prepare, and you should not experience any nausea. Also, because the LSA’s are extracted they take way less longer to start working. Expect to feel the effects within an hour.
  9. Keep your little bottle in the fridge. Heat is bad for all tryptamines.
  10. Something to note: You can evaporate off the alcohol and you will be left with the alkaloids which you can put into gel caps etc. But, this is harder to dose, etc. I’ve found the alcohol method very easy and precise.

TECHNICAL EXTRACTION PROCESS

EXTRACTION:

The method I use is a general one – I copied it from one used by some scientists to extract mescaline from peyote, but I have since seen close variations used on many plants. This procedure is followed, whenever a plant is studied for its alkaloids. A few ingredients and bits of equipment are necessary. I am a chemist, and have my own chemistry set. I have considered manufacture, but I find that there are enough interesting things to do just extracting natural compounds, which is much easier, indeed, possible in the home.

You will need:

A few flasks, glass containers, etc. of suitable sizes, depending on how large a volume you are playing with. A separating funnel is almost essential – this could be tricky to get without a little effort. If you don’t know, it is an inverted conical flask with a hole at the top to pour stuff in , and a tap at the bottom to let the stuff out accurately . It is used for separating immiscible layers. A vacuum filtration apparatus would be very useful; I did have a bodgy one rigged up myself, but it was always difficult to use. Some kind of still, though, is pretty important to have, although conceivably for a once off you could get by without it, if you don’t mind breathing in a lot of solvent. As far as still goes it is to recover solvent, and leave goodness as a residue at the bottom. I use a bit of quickfit I nicked: a round bottom flask, short column, thermometer on top, and a small condenser. takes for ever, but don’t expect to follow this procedure in anything under a day. Other bits and pieces: A filtre of some sort is a necessity; preferably a good one, with a vacuum pump if you are filtring gluggy stuff (cactus is the worst, sticky goo, e.g., other things like seeds and bark are better).

People have been known to use such devices as coffee filtres, t-shirts, tins with holes in the bottom (as a filtre press) and so on. Whatever you can scrounge. A lab buchner funnel, sidearm flask, and venturi pump are ideal. All this stuff is standard in any chemical lab, regardless of discipline. (cont’d in part ii) CTION part ii: Chemicals necessary: The paydirt (obviously) Some solvents: methanol (lots), and a non polar solvent. Some people use ether – this is dangerous and doesn’t dissolve everything. Your best bet is probably something chlorinated – I use dichloromethane, although chloroform will do (don’t breath too much – it is fun at first, but ends up making you feel ill). Drycleaning fluid. petrol. I don’t know what you have access to.

Dichloromethane is good because it is non-toxic, volatile, and a good solvent. It has a major drawback: separation is often very difficult once you have placed your gluggy plant muck in there. The shot is to use large quantities of everything, and be patient. You will also need an acid (Hydrogen chloride is good) and a base/alkali (Sodium hydroxide is good – that way, if you stuff up, you end up synthesizing salt instead of something nasty.) Also useful: acid/base indicator paper, boiling chips (porcelain grains) and activated charcoal – see local chemist.

The idea is this: Most fun compounds (the only exception is maybe THC, and alcohol if you count that) are basic – they contain nitrogen. So: in general, if you react them with hydrochloric acid, the form a water soluble chloride. If you react them with dilute base in the aqueous phase, they go back to being a base, which is insoluble in water, but soluble in organic non-polar solvents (like CH2Cl2). So, the theory is, that only a base will go from water to solvent and back to water etc. when changed from acidic to basic and back to acidic. This gives you a way of removing all the other crap which is not alkaloid from a sample. That is the theory. When I do this, if I can get down to some brown or green sludge that I can throw down or smoke, I am happy with a good days work. Ideally, you should end up with lovely white crystals, but I think that would require a lot of time and effort, and indeed a considerable loss of product in the process.

Procedure:

Get your stuff. Dry it as much as possible – this makes life easier later on. You will never get all the water out, but too bad. Chop it up as fine as possible: a blender comes in handy. You may wish to chop then dry. A word of caution : try to avoid exposing your stuff to excessive heat. I dry in low heat oven. Heat and air destroy good compounds from upwards of 100 degs C. All this bit will depend on exactly what you are extracting. Once it is finely divided – powdered if possible, put it in a big container, and cover it with methanol. Alternatives to methanol here are ethanol (not as good) and acetone (good solvent – rips the crap out of anything, but is more reactive – can react with your actives). Now, depending on what your stuff is, you have to let the methanol have time to remove it all. This is best done by leaving in a quiet warm place for a few days, even up to a week, and shaking it occasionally so it is mixed. Some papers recommend solvent extraction (soxhlet apparatus) and refluxing at the boiling point of the methanol (80 degs or so – I can’t remember). I usually just rely on time to get the good stuff out. When you are ready (early in the morning), filtre the muck, to give you methanol+dissolved brown gunk, and a residue soaked with methanol. The residue still contains a lot of good stuff, so soak again for an hour, and repeat, and do a third time if you are feeling generous (3 is the magic number in extraction work).

When you are done, there is another thing you can do finally, if desired: depending on what your stuff is, mix it up with dilute hydrochloric acid, 1M is appropriate. let stand for an hour, then filtre (this may be very difficult) That will get the last of the alkaloids out of the substrate. (continued in part iii) EXTRACTION part iii You now have a methanol-plant stuff mixture, and a dilute HCL-plant stuff mixture, if you bothered to do that part. Evaporate the methanol, to leave a small amount of goo. This will contain water, a bit of methanol, and all kinds of resins and muck, and if you are lucky, the alkaloids. If a very quick and crude extraction was all that was desired, then after stripping the last of the methanol with vacuum if possible, this residue could be smoked eaten or whathaveyou. I leave that to your discretion.

However, if a cleaner product is desired, the double layer extraction will need to be performed. Combine the evaporated methanol gunge with the hydrochloric acid filtrate if you have any. If you don’t then mix the methanol stuff with an excess of dilute (1M) HCl. Feel free to filtre again at this point. Anything of marginal solubility here is no good to you. Get the stuff as clean as possible. Boiling with activated charcoal is another useful trick for removing gunge. Just boil it up, and filter off the charcoal for a cleaner brew. You should now have an acid aqueous solution of alkaloids and water solubles from the plant. Take your acidic solution, and bassify. This is done by mixing in dilute sodium hydroxide (I use up to 5M to save on total volume. Be careful with conc NaOH – apart from eating skin, it eats alkaloids) As you mix in the NaOH, you will see swirls of white precipitate form and redissolve. Continue until the white swirls stay, and until the solution is quite cloudy. Indicator paper is necessary to see that the solution is basic.

If you can’t get indicator paper, you can make an indicator by boiling up some purple flowers. The dyes in most flowers go bright red in acid, and green in strong alkali. Just a drop of dye and a drop of mixture should tell you what is acid or base.

The white precipitate is the alkaloids. The more the better. Next, add equal volume of non-polar solvent (dichloromethane) to the mix. Place in separating funnel, and shake. Separate. This may be very difficult or slow. Adding more solvent, more basic water, etc. may help. Adding lots of salt to the water layer will help break an emulsion. Ideally you want it do this step 3 times – to extract as much as possible from the water layer into the organic. I find this part very difficult, and you have to accept that you will lose quite a lot of material here. It is, however probably easier with some plants that others: cactus is very difficult, barks and seeds would be easier. Use plenty of salt, and agitate to separate. When you have finished extraction, chuck the basic water layer. The solvent layer is kept, and can be backwashed with salty water for a cleaner mixture.

The solvent can now be dried, (using salt or some dry powder, the filtred) (I don’t usually bother with this – the old hairdryer at the end can remove some last solvent and water) then strip the solvent in a vacuum to get your final product – some kind of syrup could be expected. This is super concentrated, but may only be half the strength of the original. e.g. put in enough for 10 doses of morning glory seeds, get back 5 doses or more of concentrated alkaloids. If it is desired to take the process still further, you can do the obvious thing – mix your solvent layer with dilute acid again and extract back into water. Acid layer could be evaporated under vacuum to give salts of alkaloids. Alternatively, if the organic layer were scrupulously dry, bases could be salted out with some organic acid – a tartrate, oxalate could be formed. I have never bothered with such things – you would need a lot of pure extract to be bothered.

The acid-base extraction process can be continued as many times as is desired. If a truly pure product is desired, the only way to go from here is chromatography. I have never used this at home, and wouldn’t think it was worth the trouble, but there will be papers available on what was used for a particular extraction case.

Hawaiian baby woodrose seeds extraction HBWR: To dose, you don’t have to remove all the shell, but just take a pocket knife and scrape all the “dark-brown” stuff off until the seed is