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The 7 Easy Steps of Growing Marijuana

Legal cannabis is becoming the norm across the United States and in many other countries of the world. Hooray!! Although not official, it is ostensibly legal in most of Europe and if not legal, then certainly tolerated.

So, you have come to the decision to grow your own cannabis. Well done! Soon you will be part of a rapidly growing culture. The phenomenon of homegrown marijuana that is sweeping the world.

Growing your own cannabis is a fun and inexpensive way to put high-quality buds in your jar. Marijuana is a hardy plant that can grow in a wide range of climates, in greenhouses or indoors all year round.

  • 1. Cannabis is your friend
  • 2. Step 1: choosing your cannabis seeds
  • 3. Step 2: cannabis fundamentals
  • 3a. Light
  • 3b. Growing medium
  • 3c. Air
  • 3d. Water
  • 3e. Temperature
  • 3f. Nutrients
  • 3g. Humidity
  • 4. Step 3: lights for indoor cannabis growing
  • 5. Step 4: germination and cannabis seedlings
  • 6. Step 5: the vegetative phase of cannabis
  • 7. Step 6: the blooming period of healthy cannabis
  • 8. Step 7: harvesting, drying and curing for best quality buds
  • 8.a Harvesting the marijuana plant
  • 8.b How long does cannabis take to cure?
  • 9. Pick a strain
  • 10. Top 6 cannabis strains that are easy to grow
  • 1. Cannabis is your friend
  • 2. Step 1: choosing your cannabis seeds
  • 3. Step 2: cannabis fundamentals
  • 3a. Light
  • 3b. Growing medium
  • 3c. Air
  • 3d. Water
  • 3e. Temperature
  • 3f. Nutrients
  • 3g. Humidity
  • 4. Step 3: lights for indoor cannabis growing
  • 5. Step 4: germination and cannabis seedlings
  • 6. Step 5: the vegetative phase of cannabis
  • 7. Step 6: the blooming period of healthy cannabis
  • 8. Step 7: harvesting, drying and curing for best quality buds
  • 8.a Harvesting the marijuana plant
  • 8.b How long does cannabis take to cure?
  • 9. Pick a strain
  • 10. Top 6 cannabis strains that are easy to grow

CANNABIS IS YOUR FRIEND

Like all gardening, cannabis growing is a skill developed over time. It is easy to learn but takes a happily stoned lifetime to master. There is no reason to be intimidated by growing your own. The process is not complicated and can be as inexpensive or expensive as you like.

Understanding the fundamentals of cannabis growing is a good place to start your marijuana growing journey. Making informed decisions early will maximise your end yields. These seven basic steps will give you an excellent knowledge base to become an expert marijuana gardener.

STEP 1: CHOOSING YOUR CANNABIS SEEDS

The choice is staggering. Sativa, indica, ruderalis, any number of hybrids, all available at a click. You know what you enjoy from personal experience. What strains have fitted your groove in the past? What strains have performed as a satisfactory medicine for your particular ailment? They are probably a good place to start.

With your personal taste in mind now consider your growing circumstances. Are you growing in a small cupboard where small fast-maturing plants like autoflowering strains or indicas will be the most effective use of your space? Or do you have a nice big backyard where you can grow one or more monsters directly in the soil or in large pots?

STEP 2: CANNABIS FUNDAMENTALS

In order to grow at its best and give you the juicy buds, you love cannabis requires some fundamental things.

LIGHT: For healthy vegetation marijuana needs over eighteen hours of light per twenty-four hour period. Indoors this is controlled by you with timers. Outdoors germination must be delayed until the plants can be exposed to more than twelve hours of daylight and receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight per day.

GROWING MEDIUM: Organic growers will use some kinds of soil every time inside or out. However, soil isn’t the only choice. Neutral mediums that are entirely nutrient dependant include coconut coir, perlite, vermiculite or rock wool. Aeroponics, purely hydroponic or deep water culture do not use mediums at all. The suspended root matrix gets nutrients directly from the nutrient mix.

AIR: For strength and proper exchange of gases, cannabis requires fresh moving air. Outdoors this is no problems your plants will be exposed to breeze and gale alike. Indoors your plants will need a fresh air intake, stale air exhaust and a fan for air movement. Still environments encourage pests, moulds and weak growth. A buildup of aspirated gases will stunt plant growth.

WATER: Like all living things cannabis needs water to grow, thrive and carry out its biological functions. If you live somewhere with regular rainfall your outdoor crop may get all it needs from nature alone. Large cannabis plants are notoriously thirsty. If you are going big then you will certainly need to supplement water between rains.

Indoors water becomes the medium that carries nutrients. Unmodified water is used to flush hydroponic and soilless systems regularly. The pH of your water is very important. The canny cannabis grower has a good pH meter as part of a comprehensive grow kit.

TEMPERATURE: Cannabis is a very hardy plant and can survive cold and heat well. Just like you or me though, it can get stressed and not function well in the extremes. Cannabis can freeze or boil to death. It can stop growing or go into stasis. It will go into survival mode if the temperatures are too high or too cold for too long. Twenty-seven degrees centigrade is the accepted ideal for vigorous cannabis growth. Indoors this is easy to achieve with fans, air conditioning units, heating and cooling mats. Lights will certainly generate heat that needs to be vented.

Outdoors you need to pick your time. Know your particular climate well. Have a sun cycle app or chart to make sure you get your timing right. Too early and you risk your plants going into flower immediately, then re-vegging when the daylight increases. This is unwanted. Your flowers will not form properly when blooming begins. Too late and you will have small plants with fewer flower sites.

NUTRIENTS: Like all living things cannabis also requires fuel to grow. A good friable soil mix that is rich with compost, living organisms, vitamins and minerals can supply your plants with enough food for their whole life cycle.

Watering with compost tea and other organic mixes like molasses or feather meals improve soil quality and encourage healthy plant growth.

With hydroponics or neutral mediums you supply all of the plant’s lifeblood with pre-formulated nutrient blends. Usually customised for marijuana especially. Specialised concoctions are made exclusively for whichever soil-less medium you choose.

HUMIDITY: Outdoors you don’t really have any control over this factor and you are at the mercy of your climate. The upside is that the variations in humidity and the robust biological functions needed to adapt to a changing grow environment makes your plants exceptionally strong!

Indoors humidity control is very important from seed to flower. Leaves aspirate atmospheric moisture as part of their day to day functions. Properly balanced humidity makes for a healthy pest and mould-free environment.

Cupboard, grow tent or dedicated grow room. Directly in the soil or in pots outdoors. Even in a companion planted garden your marijuana will need to satisfy all these needs to grow well and supply you with high-quality resin soaked nuggets.

STEP 3: LIGHTS FOR INDOOR CANNABIS GROWING

With legalisation, there has been an absolute explosion in the choices of lights and grow chambers for growing cannabis indoors. Your budget then will be the deciding factor.

GROW CUPBOARDS: Fully customised for cannabis and ready to go sophisticated grow cupboards made by people with decades of experience are available. If you have the thousands of dollars to spare. Lights, fans, separate clone, veg and flower chambers, timers and carbon filters all ready to plug and play.

LIGHTS FOR EVERY BUDGET: At the other end of the scale, you can have a rudimentary yet very efficient CFL (Compact Fluorescent Light) or small LED panel (Light Emitting Diode) setup for less than three hundred dollars. Growing great buds in a spare cupboard. Other compact fluorescent lights like T5 battens come in a range of spectrums for vegging and flowering and can fit in a small space well.

HPS (High-Pressure Sodium) and MH (Metal Halide) lamps are traditional types of grow lights. A 1000W HPS with reflectors can efficiently light a 1.5 x 1.5-meter space and provide excellent growth. Similarly, a 600W MH lamp will light the same sized space and give you world class flowers at the end of the grow cycle. The heat factor generated by these lights must be considered. If not exhausted efficiently your grow space will quickly become too hot for healthy cannabis growth.

STEP 4: GERMINATION AND CANNABIS SEEDLINGS

Beginning your whole cannabis grow adventure is the germination of your seeds. Each viable seed contains all the information needed to grow the strain of plant you have chosen. All they need are the right conditions and the life cycle will begin. Seeds won’t germinate until three specific needs are met. Water, correct temperature (warmth) and a good location.

Growing cannabis is an organic process without strict sets of rules. It is not a linear system to learn, but an art to be mastered. There are a number of equally effective methods for germinating cannabis. Over time you will find the one that works best for you.

STRAIGHT INTO THE MEDIUM: Place seeds directly into your medium, this way you can avoid any transplant shock. More often it is easier to germinate in a small pot of your chosen medium then pot on to the garden or bigger pots.

PAPER TOWEL: Seeds are placed on moistened paper towel on a plate and placed in a warm dark place. Usually covered with plastic or an upturned plate to retain moisture and humidity. After a few days to a week, your seeds have sprouted.

JIFFIES, PLUGS AND ROCK WOOL STARTERS: Easy to maintain as you can have fifty seeds germinating in a very small space. Once the seedlings are established they can be put in their final position without damaging roots.

IN WATER: Simply soak seeds in enzyme enriched water until you see the tap root appear then put in your medium. The seedling will quickly strike and break the surface about a week later.

GERMINATION STATIONS: Offering substantial control over the germinating environment germination stations provide humidity, temperature control and can accelerate germination times.

When your plants have broken the surface and the cotyledons have shed the seed husk and opened to reveal the first set of true leaves photosynthesis has begun. Now you have a true marijuana seedling on its way to becoming a heavy resinous indoor miniature or booming outdoor tree.

STEP 5: THE VEGETATIVE PHASE OF CANNABIS

The moment green leaves meet the light photosynthesis begins in earnest. Your plants start to metabolise and the vegetative phase has begun.

INDOORS: Lights are set to an eighteen hour day, six hour night light regimen. This doesn’t have to coordinate with the actual daylight hours, you can set it to times of day that suit you. Running electrical equipment during off-peak periods can save you a lot of money.

Your plants are happy in an organic soil or they are being fed nutrients designed for the vegetative phase. Lots of fan-forced breezes keep temperatures under control and strengthen your young plants. Exotic disciplines can be used like adding carbon dioxide to the environment. Low-stress training and scrogging can be used to increase the growth rate and flower potential of indoor cannabis.

How Long Does The Vegetation Phase Last?

The vegetative phase can last as long as you like. Depending on whether you want lots of small plants taking up your space as with the Sea Of Green grow method. Or, choosing a few larger plants topped and mainlined to produce large flower clusters.

OUTDOORS: Cannabis grows rapidly once the daylight hours start to increase during spring and on into summer. Unlimited root room and good genetics can see a plant grow to three or four meters during the vegetative phase.

Most contemporary plants are topped and under-shucked continually during the whole growth phase. This encourages an even canopy that will fill with homogeneously sized buds during the bloom stage. Cannabis will continue to vegetate while there are more than twelve hours of daylight. The further away from the equator, you are the shorter vegetation time your cannabis will have before starting to flower.

STEP 6: THE BLOOMING PERIOD OF HEALTHY CANNABIS

Blooming, flowering and budding all refer to the same phase of growth for the marijuana plant. The next few months will be exciting times as aromas start to develop. Interesting floral arrangements also begin to emerge that are particular to your choice of strain. The blooming phase has distinctive chapters that are common to all cannabis plants and begin when vegetation finishes.

Outdoors the first stage of flowering can be seen when Summer’s heat has passed and autumn approaches. Indoors you control when the flowering begins by changing the lighting schedule to a twelve hour day, twelve hour night photoperiod.

Depending on species cannabis responds to hormonal changes that make it continue vegetating or begin blooming. There are typically two types APD and autoflowering:

  • APD or Absolute Photo Determinate plants rely on a hormone that is sensitive to light to keep vegetating. This hormone prevents flowering when it is active. It is rendered inactive in low light levels and as nights become longer. Twelve hours or more of night will induce flowering.
  • With autoflowering strains, this same hormone is age dependent. The plant stops producing it when it reaches a certain species-specific age and flowering begins regardless of photoperiod. This can be as little as two weeks after germination.

The Different Stages Of Blooming

DIFFERENTIATION: At the very beginning of the flowering phase a noticeable change in growth pattern happens. Rather than the striving and stretching symmetry of vegetation the branch growth begins to zig-zag and compresses with less distance between nodes. Differentiation is very noticeable.

BLOOMING: Flowering follows the same stages in all species, but for different lengths of time. A quick indica will be cured and in the pipe weeks before a long maturing sativa.

Soon after differentiation, proper flowers will start to form. Calyxes will emerge at branch internodes quickly forming pistil covered puffballs. Much desired resins are already forming in young trichomes on the pistils, calyxes and leaf surfaces.

The puffballs of calyxes start to stretch along their own spike. This makes room for fresh fluorescent clusters and bud-specific leaves. Unlike sugar leafs, these new leaves are thicker, smaller, often heavily crinkled and covered in trichomes. They are eventually partially submerged by the swelling flower clusters.

Over the weeks these flower clusters multiply and form large colas covered in resin swollen trichomes. Left to mature further the calyxes and the trichomes swell with copious amounts of desirable resins. Full maturity quickly approaches.

STEP 7: HARVESTING, DRYING & CURING FOR BEST QUALITY BUDS

During the last few weeks, nutrients are ignored and your plants will be flushed out with clean water. This guarantees a pure flavour free of nutrient and built up salt aftertastes.

When Is My Cannabis Mature?

Now covered abundantly in trichomes, pistils are shrivelling back and changing colour. Deep orange, mauve, brown or scarlet may emerge depending on species. The swollen resin sacks begin to change colour in waves all over the plant. First, going from clear to milky then milky to amber. The flower clusters are so swollen they seem to have turned inside out.

These signs mean it is time to harvest the results of your hard work.

  • For higher THC content harvest when trichomes are 20-30% amber.
  • For a broader cannabinoid profile harvest when trichomes are 60-80% amber. Watch carefully as the differences here may only be twenty-four hours.

Harvesting The Marijuana Plant

There is no set way to harvest. Be rakish and learn by doing.

Some will wet trim which is removing all the leaves while the plant is still standing then break the plant down further. Hanging branches to dry or laying individual buds on a drying rack. Some will remove the large sugar leaves only then harvest and hang the whole plant.

There are no set rules except be careful when handling. You want to disturb the delicate trichomes as little as possible.

Drying And Curing Cannabis

Dry your buds in a dark cool place with little humidity. Ideally, this process is very slow and should take a minimum of two weeks.

Check things often for over drying or moulds

When dry, thin branches will easily snap. Thick branches will still be slightly flexible.

The chlorophyll has degraded and the green of growth has been replaced with species dependent colours. Fawn, tan, a pale green or even deep blue and purple can emerge as the buds true dry colours develop.

Storing Cured Buds

At this point loosely pack a well-sealed glass jar with your treasure. Open the top or “burp” the jar once a day for the first two weeks. This releases built up humidity that can moulder your buds. Once the flowers are dry to the touch only burp the jar once a week. You don’t want weeks of hard work to be wrecked by lack of attention.

How Long Does Cannabis Take To Cure?

You can cure for as long as you like. Remembering that the psychotropic compounds drop a water molecule when properly cured and become more psychoactive. This takes at least six weeks when cured under ideal conditions. The longer the cure the smoother the result. Keep your jars in a dark cool place. THC breaks down into other cannabinoids over time when exposed to light.

If you are unsure about bud dryness sample your wares as they dry so you have a future reference. Dry cannabis doesn’t really feel completely dry because of the waxiness of the resins. You will develop the feel and skill quickly.

Enjoying your own well-grown cannabis is not difficult. Some attention and patience can reap stinky benefits even from the smallest of spaces.

Happy growing friends!

NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW EASY IT IS TO GROW CANNABIS, PICK A STRAIN

Selecting a strain to cultivate is perhaps the most crucial moment before beginning a grow. There are hundreds of known strains available on the market, and probably hundreds of others that aren’t registered. Choosing a strain can seem like a complicated task in itself. That’s why we’ve compiled numerous top 10 lists to present growers with the best strains in specific categories.

Our list of the top 10 autoflowering cannabis strains includes varieties such as Royal Gorilla Automatic, Royal Cookies Automatic, and Northern Light Automatic. Autoflowering strains are ideal for beginner growers, as well as more experienced cultivators looking for a quick harvest. They grow from seed to flower in around eight weeks, maintain easily manageable heights, and don’t attract much attention.

Growers seeking big yields should check out our top 10 best feminized cannabis strains. The list includes premium varieties such as Power Flower, Amnesia Haze, and White Widow. Feast your eyes on this array of genetics. You’ll find stoning indicas and energising sativas. These strains require a change in the life cycle to force flowering, but typically offer higher cannabinoid levels and bigger yields that autos.

Smoking cannabis isn’t just about getting high. Varying levels of aromatic terpenes in each strain offer a completely different sensory experience. Our top 10 tastiest cannabis strains list displays some of the most tantalising cultivars available, including Fruit Spirit, Fat Banana, and Haze Berry. These strains offer delectable tastes with every toke. Use them to make extracts and edibles to give your creations a flavourful kick.

Kush genetics are among the most sought-after and praised in the cannabis world. They descend from landraces found in the Hindu Kush mountains, and boast body-melting, stoning highs. Our breeders have harnessed these genetics to create powerful hybrids like Candy Kush, Bubble Kush, and Pineapple Kush. Check out our top 10 list of Kush cannabis strains.

TOP 6 CANNABIS STRAINS THAT ARE EASY TO GROW

GREEN CRACK PUNCH: FAST, BEGINNER-FRIENDLY SATIVA

Most sativas are finicky and require lots of time and experience to be able to do their thing. But smokers can’t stop raving about the energetic high and delicious taste. If you’re throwing caution to the wind and starting off with a sativa anyway, Green Crack Punch is a great choice.

This Purple Punch X Green Crack cross can take all your mistakes in stride no matter what you throw at her. She won’t care if you over or under water, if you don’t mix your nutrients just right, if the pH is a bit off or you have a few minor light leaks. She’ll still yield very well! After just 55–60 days of bloom, Green Crack Punch will reward your efforts with up to 500g/m² of beautiful, multi-coloured buds that are dense and totally saturated with resin.

Green Crack Punch’s high, on the other hand, doesn’t take it easy on novice smokers. At 20% THC, the power is dead serious, starting off with Green Crack’s raging energy and focus, before settling down, hours later, into a pain-relieving physical stone that’s the perfect way to wind down. Thank Purple Punch’s touch of indica for that final touch of peaceful calm. The smoke is smooth, silky and filled with hints of tart citrus, ripe blueberry and sweet grape.

EASY BUD: STRAIGHT TO THE POINT

Autoflowering hybrids are popular because they’re both fast and simple to grow. Easy Bud is no exception to that rule. She gets straight to the point with fast finishes, short heights and a very forgiving nature. If you’re on the hunt for cannabis seeds that are virtually guaranteed to give you some nice buds even if you’re still figuring this growing thing out, Easy Bud is the way to go.

Easy Bud is a smart choice if you don’t have a lot of space. Indoors, she’ll stay under 60cm, but get fat and chunky. The branches will be sturdy enough to hold her 275–325g/m² payload without needing any type of complicated support system. Her white indica heritage results in green buds that sparkle with a frosty sheen of resin, nestled within healthy, dark green leaves.

If you’re not an experienced user or you need a little more wake-and-bake in your stash, Easy Bud has your back! The THC is in the mild range at 12%, for a functional stone. The buzz takes the edge off, allowing you to chill, but it probably won’t lock you to the couch even if you have zero tolerance. Even hard-core stoners could use a few of these flowers just in case one of their lightweight, or overly paranoid, mates shows up.

CRITICAL: SERIOUSLY SIMPLE CUP WINNER

Super easy and a Cannabis Cup winner? That’s exactly what you’ll get with this medium-sized cash cropper. Although it’s simple enough for pure newbies, Critical delivers enough potent weed to attract the attention of professional growers. Whether you’re new to the game or go by the “work smarter not harder” creed, this 7-week Afghani X Skunk could easily become your go-to variety after just a single try.

When grown indoors, Critical is easy to work with because she never gets above 140 cm tall. If you need shorter plants, use either low or high-stress training techniques, depending on what you prefer. The plants will recover quickly either way. The colour is predominantly green with some autumn hues showing up during the last week. Even beginners can see up to 600g/m² after a very rapid bloom period.

As a 60% indica, 40% sativa, Critical has a fairly balanced stone that affects both the mind and the body for total relaxation. It’s very mellow, with no excess energy or anxiety. Get a little paranoid when you smoke high-powered weed? That won’t be a problem with Critical, even though it has an 18% THC level. This weed is as calm as they come. The flavour is classic: pungently sweet with earthy notes.

WHITE WIDOW: CRYSTALLISED PERFECTION

Known as the mother of the “White” family, White Widow has spawned countless hybrids, but the original Brazilian Sativa X Indian Indica is still the best and the easiest to grow. She’s won her share of cups, she’s dazzled generations of growers and no true stoner can turn down her snow-covered buds or her euphoric buzz. Compared to any other strain, White Widow is a real show piece!

White Widow is a classic Dutch strain, and that wouldn’t happen if she couldn’t thrive outdoors in colder temperatures. She does like a lot of light for super-high yields, so this hybrid is best grown indoors. Other than that, White Widow isn’t fussy. She doesn’t require any special attention or have any peculiar nutrient needs. Just use a good soil or other medium, don’t let your plants dry out, use feed designed for cannabis and you’ll have a spectacular harvest after just 9 weeks of flowering.

Although White Widow only has 50% sativa genetics, she smokes like pure Haze, for a totally cerebral high. The buzz starts off as a tingle across the face before it explodes into a huge euphoric cloud of happiness. It’s slightly trippy if you aren’t used to smoking this type of weed, so take care if you usually associate herb with a more physical stone. The taste is crisp and refreshing, with an unmistakable pine flavour, accented by clean notes of tart citrus.

ROYAL JACK AUTO: CARRYING ON THE JACK HERER LEGACY

With a shorter height and faster flowering period, Royal Jack Auto puts classic Jack Herer buds within reach of novice growers. This version stays true to the original strain, with medical-grade head highs and Jack’s signature spicy aroma. Pair this one with White Widow and your first few grows will feature a Dutch duo that’s hard to beat.

Royal Jack Auto is a fully autoflowering strain. That means she’ll start to show signs of bloom within two weeks of germination even if the lights are on around the clock. Flowers are fully mature and ready to cut in just 10 weeks total. Why not grow a few of these automatics side by side with some photoperiod strains? That way you’ll have fully cured, smoke-ready Royal Jack Auto in hand to make your second trim way more pleasant.

At 16% THC, Royal Jack Auto has a decent potency level for medical use or mild recreation. It’s even good as a functional morning smoke for the highly tolerant. The high starts off with a burst of creativity and motivation before it eases slowly into a chill body buzz for a pleasantly mellow ending. The taste is almost exactly like Jack Herer’s fresh herbal flavour.

SPECIAL QUEEN 1: TOP QUALITY AT A LOW PRICE

Few beginners make it through their first few grows without ruining a few seeds or killing a plant or two. Special Queen 1 is a classic Skunk mix that’s reasonably priced so you can harvest a nice supply of pungent flowers without breaking the bank. Save the more expensive seeds for after you learn the ropes.

Although she’s relatively cheap, Special Queen 1 is no slacker. After just 8 weeks of bloom, sometimes 7, these plants will be covered from head to toe in Sativa-dominant blooms that have a heavy, permeating smell. They’ll grow well just about anywhere including soil or hydro, indoors or out, trained or untrained. Yields are very generous at 550g/m² inside, or 550g/plant outside making Special Queen 1 just as appealing to professional growers as mere amateurs.

Special Queen 1 improves on original Skunk’s potency with an impressive 18% THC rating that gives this strain staying power. Even though the effect is a bit stronger and longer lasting, it’s still a classic high that’s mostly cerebral with a definite mood lift. Just a few puffs and your eyes will droop, your smile will widen and your thoughts will expand. Special Queen 1 has a sweet, fruity taste with a spicy edge.

Well-linked marijuana tutorial about growing great cannabis indoors or outdoors. Soon you will have a big brain full of essential marijuana growing knowledge.

How to Grow Weed

How is cannabis grown? If you’re lucky enough to live in a region where growing your own cannabis is legal but you’re not sure where to start, here at Growbarato we can show you how to grow weed so that you don’t have to depend on the black market or cannabis associations. If you follow our tips and tricks, within a few months you’ll have your very own cannabis.

We’ll show you how to grow weed step by step with this easy guide, helping you to understand your plant as if it were your friend. The key is identifying any possible issues and fixing them before they can appear; not knowing what’s going on can often lead to a ruined crop.

There are two ways to grow cannabis; outdoors, where the plants get their energy from the sun, and indoors, which is when the plants are kept indoors under lights that are specifically used for growing cannabis. We’re going to have a look at both of these methods; the main difference is that feminized outdoor plants start flowering at certain times of year when the light changes, and with indoor plants you can control the lighting to the point where the plant starts flowering whenever you want them to.

We’re going to start with germinating cannabis seeds, going through all of the important points including how to cure your buds after harvesting them.

  • Germinating your seeds
  • Growth
  • Transplanting
  • Pre-flowering
  • Flowering
  • Growth
  • Root cleaning
  • Harvesting and drying
  • Curing the buds

How to Grow Weed | Germinating your Seeds

To successfully germinate your seeds, you just need to essentially sandwich your seeds between damp (not dripping) sheets of kitchen paper between two plates or in opaque Tupperware. In 24-48 hours your seeds should have popped and the root should be visible. Once you can see the root, it’s time to move your seeds to small pots so that they can begin growing. If you want more information on how to germinate weed seeds, make sure to check out our post.

Once you have a solid root system and your plant has started to grow, you should move it to a larger pot, around 3L. Here we have a picture of what our plants looked like before moving them to a bigger pot.

How to Grow Weed | Cannabis Vegging Stage

After germination, your plants should be transplanted to bigger, 3L pots, where they’ll have enough space to grow out their roots. They should be in these pots for about a month. During this time, you should begin adding growth fertilizers to the water that you feed your plants. These fertilizers are rich in nitrogen, which is where your plant will be getting most of its nutrition from during that first month. The first few days you must be careful with your fertilizer dosage; if your fertilizer says to use 2 to 4ml per L, then you should use 2ml the first few days and 4ml in the last days of growth.

For indoor growth, your plants should remain in this state for 21-30 days, depending on the cannabis strain. For outdoor growth, you need to take into account that your plants will continue growing until summer starts, and that they must be transplanted once a month following this order; 3L, 7L, 11L, 30L. 30L is the largest pot you should be using up to a month before they stop growing, or you can also move your plant straight to the ground after the 3L pot if you have the space.

Transplanting to Flowering Pots

Once summer begins, or once the growing stage of your indoor plant is over, you’ll need to move your plants to flowering pots. Cannabis plants need to grow out a lot of roots when they’re in this phase, so that they can stretch and open their branches wide, allowing for light to reach the entire plant. If you don’t transplant them to flowering pots, the leaves will begin falling off early and the plants won’t flower properly.

The pot must be more or less twice the size of the last pot used during the growth stage, so if you ended an indoor growth phase with a 3L pot, you should transplant the plant to a 7L pot and so on. If you have an outdoor plant that’s finished the growth period in a 30L pot, then you’re going to want to move it to a 50L pot.

If you’re harvesting indoor plants, apart from transplanting them you must also change the lights from from 18h on and 6h off, to 12h on and 12h off, which is what causes the plants to start flowering.

Now is when you should start giving your plants nutrients that act as a flowering stimulant, so that they can produce as many flowers as possible, greatly increasing your yield. Use it along with your growth fertilizer until pre-flowering starts.

Pre-flowering

You used to have to wait until your plants began pre-flowering (showing their sex) to find out if your plants were male or female, and many growers still do this, although you can buy feminized seeds that are 100% female if you don’t want to go through the effort of having to get rid of male plants.

At this stage, your plants should grow quite a lot within just a few days, opening up so that all of the flowers and leaves can get as much light as possible.

Once the pre-flowering stage begins, you’ll be able to distinguish the plant sex at the at the bottom of the plant where the branches are close to the trunk or stem. If you can see two hair-like strands, then you know that your plant is female and also that it is starting to flower. If the plant has little balls at the bottom, it’s a male plant and unless you want the rest of your plants to end up filled with seeds, you need to remove it straight away.

Once you see the pre-flower start, you should switch out the growth base fertilizer for a flowering base fertilizer during the rest of the flowering stage, along with the flower stimulant until the first flowers appear.

How to Grow Weed | Flowering

Once you can see little white hairs forming on the buds of your branches and on the central eye of the plant, you know that it’s flowering. Flowers will begin appearing all over the plant, and thanks to the flower stimulator you should have a greater quantity of flowers, meaning a more productive future.

You should always use your flowering stimulant along with a flower fertilizer, which is rich in phosphorus and potassium, which is what your plants need the most during the flowering phase. Once the flowers have stopped taking shape and fattening up, you should stop using the stimulator or Booster, as it is frequently called. Continue using the flowering base, and you should also start using nutrients rich in sugars, which will make your buds denser, thicker, stronger and more resinous. Both products should be used until you reach the next phase, which is the fattening stage.

The fattening stage

Once it’s been about 40 days since changing your lights to 12h, or a month or so of outdoor flowering, you should see that your plants now have some pretty good flowers, full of white pistils on thick strings of bud. This is when the flowers on your plants begin growing fatter so that pollination is easier, but in doing so they consume a high quantity of their favorite nutrients, phosphorus and potassium.

Here we have a picture of our plants from the day that we started with the fattening and flowering fertilizers.

Fattening fertilizers tend to have a high concentration of PK, with the most potent ones surpassing an NPK of 0-50-30. These products should be used once a week, but there are weaker ones that can be used almost every time you water your plants. The fattening product should be used like so; you should water using flowering fertilizer and sugars, and then next watering should be done with flowering fertilizer and the fattening product. Then, you should stop with the product and start with the next phase; washing the roots. You must keep in mind that at this stage there should still about 15 harvest days left.

It’s important to wait it out and let your plant grow during those last two weeks, because that’s when your plant will get denser and thicker. If you harvest your plant too soon you could lose a lot of bud density, so it’s always better to wait a bit than to cut your plant too early.

You should wait for two more weeks of flowering than your seed packet indicates, because seed vendors don’t usually figure in the 10-15 day difference required with indoor plants. The dates given for outdoor plants tend to coincide perfectly, because they’re made for planting in the northern hemisphere, right where we live! (Spain, by the way)

How to Grow Weed | Cleaning the roots

When your plants can go on no longer, when they hardly have any white hairs and the ones that were there are brown, it’s time to flush the roots so you can harvest your plants with the minimum amount of fertilizer residue. It can be done many ways; at this stage you may need to adapt to the needs of each of our plants.

Some plants may take on a lot of water, whereas others might not. In the case of plants that are still taking on a lot of water when you harvest, the best thing to do would be to plop them in a bathtub and wash them until the water that comes out of the plant is practically clean, meaning you’ve cleaned away most of the fertilizer residue. If you have plants that hardly take on water, you should keep watering them with just water for 10 days every time it dries up. If you flush these types of plants with too much water you may end up causing rot in the flowers.

How to Grow Weed | Harvesting and drying your marihuana

Once the soil is dry after being washed, or it has been fed just water for 10-15 days and you’ve let it dry completely, you should move on to cutting your plants down so you can dry them and smoke them.

Remember, the soil must be completely dry when you harvest your plants just in case there is still too much humidity inside the flowers themselves, which could cause the plant to go bad if they aren’t dried properly. This can cause the flowers to rot from the inside out and you might not even catch it until you go to smoke it.

Moving on, once the soil is completely dry, you can do two things; you can cut the leaves off of the plant one by one and try to leave your plant as clean as possible, or you can just harvest it as is and dry it with all of the leaves included. Depending on where you plan on drying your plant, you will have to use one method or the other. Once you’ve harvested, congratulations! You now know how to grow weed!

If you plan on drying your plants in a cold area, somewhere where it’s humid at nighttime, or somewhere you’ve already dried plants and you know that they dry too slow (more than 15 days) then you should remove all of the leaves from the plant before you start drying it in order to remove excess humidity.

On the other hand, if you plan to dry your plants in a warm or dry zone, where it might dry too fast (less than 15 days) then you should leave all of the leaves on the plant, causing the drying time to increase, which is necessary; if your flowers dry too fast they won’t get rid of enough chlorophyll which can leave a weird taste in your flowers.

Find an adequate place to dry your plants. All you have to do is hang your entire plant upside down, with or without leaves, on a string or cord (like a clothesline) and avoid heavy breezes, excessive light and heat, because all of these things directly affect the resin and the quality of your cannabis.

Curing your marihuana

Now that you know how to grow weed, you’re going to need to know what to do once your weed has been grown. While your plants are drying, you should keep an eye on them to see how they’re progressing, because if the bud dries up too much it will lose a lot of flavor and you won’t be able to cure it right. Curing is simply getting rid of the chlorophyll in the buds, so that it loses that intense green color and becomes slightly yellow. By curing your cannabis, it will lose that chlorophyll-green taste and you can get the most out of its terpenes.

To cure your marihuana you must wait until it appears to be completely dry, with some humidity still present in the trunk. By touch you can tell that it’s dry, but if you bend the branch and it doesn’t make any cracking sounds, that’s how you know that your marihuana is ready to be cured. Now, you can put it into a glass jar or a wooden box and begin the process.

Once you’ve put your marihuana in a closed space like a glass jar, the humidity will expand through the jar equally, and the buds will get soft again. Little by little, the humidity will start killing off the chlorophyll, but it won’t be strong enough to damage the weed. This step requires some careful thought, because if you’re a beginner it might take a while to know when to cure your marihuana and it can depend on the strain too.

To know if your plant is too humid, or if a day in a glass jar won’t be enough, take it out of the jar after a day. If, when you take it out, it seems recently harvested, and too soft, you should remove it completely from the jar and air it, for about another day. If it’s only slightly more soft, then that is what you’re looking for. The humidity is killing the chlorophyll, so you should only open the jar for about 5 minutes, let it air out, and close it again.

Your cannabis might smell strange for the first few days, but don’t worry about it, it will get better every day. Every day you should open the jar for about 5 minutes until the day when you open the jar and the buds are crispy again (this takes about a week to 10 days). This means that it’s ready to be left in that jar for two weeks. When you eventually open it, you’ll see that the end result is much different from weed that has only been dried, and you can start smoking and enjoying your own weed. You’ll have the best weed around!

If you’re still having trouble figuring out how to grow weed properly, make sure to check out the rest of our posts!

Author: Javier Chinesta
Translation: Ciara Murphy

A complete tutorial on how to grow weed; a simple guide in which we explain everything involved with growing your own plants step by step.