Growing cannabis is like developing a skill over time. It takes time, patience, and you must be prepared for failure along the way. However, despite your urge t See exactly how a marijuana plant grows in these high-quality time-lapse videos. Watch plants sprout, get topped, fill up a ScrOG screen, flower and more! Glass Check out our entire glass collection, from dabbers to spoons to sherlocks and bangers and more! Please note: there are multiple pages here to scroll through – don’t stop at this first
How long do Autoflowers take from seed to harvest?
Growing cannabis is like developing a skill over time. It takes time, patience, and you must be prepared for failure along the way. However, despite your urge to maintain a cannabis garden, a lot of factors can go against you. When you realize that it takes almost 4-5 months to harvest the buds (not to mention the extra time for curing) you may change your mind and settle for buds available in the dispensary. But, what if I told you that autoflowers are the solution to your problems? It doesn’t take a lot of effort to grow them, and you save the most important resource – time.
Unlike photoperiodic strains that can take anywhere from 8-14 weeks or more, autoflowering strains take as little as 7 weeks up to 11 weeks from seed to harvest. So read on to learn more about autoflowers from seed to harvest.
The advent of autoflowering cannabis cultivars opened up a whole world of new possibilities. The idea that a person could place a seed in the soil and harvest a canopy loaded with flowers in a matter of weeks brought many new growers into the fold. But rapid growing times aren’t only beneficial for impatient growers or those looking to maximize commercial profits. This trait comes in extremely handy for growers looking to remain as stealthy as possible. Cannabis prohibition has caused growers all over the planet to have to adapt and overcome. Autoflowering plants are highly valuable to them because it gives them the opportunity to set up and take down a growing operation in such a small window of time, leaving them with jars packed full of buds at the end of it all.
Just in case you’re clueless about autoflowers, let’s start with:
1. What Are Autoflowering Cannabis Plants?
Autoflowering cannabis seeds grow just like regular cannabis plants. However, there are a few differences. The biggest difference is that while traditional cannabis plants grow and flower according to the seasons, autoflowers don’t follow seasons. In simple words, they don’t flower according to the light they receive. Another major difference is the time required to grow autos vs traditional cannabis plants.
By traditional cannabis plants, we are referring to photoperiod plants. Let’s imagine you plant a regular cannabis seed today. You wait for it to complete its vegetative stage while providing anywhere from 16-18 hours of light. If they are growing outside, it’s out of your control and you can only plant them based on the seasons. Anyway, coming back to the vegetative stage, the plant will grow indefinitely in the vegetative or growth stage until it receives almost 16-18 hours of light. Once the number of hours reduces and it begins to receive only 12-14 hours, the flowering stage is triggered.
With autoflowers, though, it’s different. They don’t follow seasons and are grown under the same light cycle from seed to harvest so you can expect to harvest yields faster.
Without diving too deeply into genetics and evolution, this difference came about via natural selection. Most wildtype and landrace cannabis plants found in nature are photoperiods, with the exception of those that adapted to conditions further north. Natural dispersion and human migration drove cannabis up to northern regions that experience shorter growing seasons. Here, relying on seasonal sunlight as a cue to start flowering wouldn’t leave plants very long to reproduce and set seed. Therefore, naturally occurring autoflowering cannabis plants—known as the subspecies binomial Cannabis ruderalis—developed the ability to flower based on their age to determine their survival and proliferation. Wildtype ruderalis specimens are nothing special when it comes to flower density and cannabinoid and terpene profiles. However, breeders have crossed these genetics with photoperiod varieties to get the best of both worlds. The hybrid progeny have both the autoflowering gene and possess superior phytochemical production.
2. How Long Does It Take For Autoflowers From Seed To Harvest?
So, coming back to the main question… How long does it take for autos? Well, it depends. There’s no exact answer, but there’s an average time that’s good enough to consider. Autos – like regular plants – also spend some time growing in the vegetative stage. With regular plants, you can force them to flower by changing the light schedule. For instance, if you’re providing an 18/6 light/dark cycle now, you can make the plants flower by switching to a 12/12 cycle.
With autos, however, you can’t do that. Why? Well, it’s because autos follow a fixed timing. As soon as the plant grows for a while, the plant switches to the flowering phase on its own without your interference. And, this is also why most growers prefer autos. There’s zero maintenance and you’ll never have to worry about light leaks.
How long do autos take from seed to harvest? There’s no exact answer, but most autos complete their growing cycles in just a matter of 7-11 weeks, that is the autoflower time from seed to harvest. The total growing time depends on two factors: Genotype and phenotype.
Autoflowering plants possess a genetic code, or genotype, passed down from both of their parents. All of the offspring share a genotype that dictates their growing speed. However, every offspring features some degree of genetic variability, meaning every plant has a slightly different genetic code and therefore total growing time. This varies between cultivars and also between the same plants of the same cultivar, or “strain”. Phenotype refers to how the genotype expresses itself within a particular environment. Favourable temperature, humidity, nutrition, and lighting all impact growing speed to some degree.
Here’s how it works:
Week 1: Seedling Stage
Considering that you’ve germinated the seeds successfully, you can plant the seeds in their respective containers. Autos can be transplanted, yes, but leave that to the experts. They will do far better if you do NOT transplant them and instead plant them directly in the containers you’ve chosen. Transplanting any plant causes stress. While vegetating photoperiod varieties have all the time in the world to recover before flowering, autoflowering cultivars are constantly moving towards flowering regardless. Any unnecessary stress can result in stunted or reduced growth that these plants have little time to recover from, resulting in reduced vigor and yields.
There isn’t a lot of action in the first week, but it will start pretty soon. Additionally, remember not to feed any nutrients during the first week. Sure, you want your plants to grow fast and also want to help them, but feeding nutrients in the very first week will actually burn your plants faster than you can imagine!
Seedlings are extremely fragile so make sure the conditions are on point and that you handle them with care!
Week 2: Early Vegetative Stage
The plants will show some growth at this point. Use some nutrients, but it will be better if you use it at quarter strength. You can even use a little more but try not to burn the babies. Once the first pair of true leaves have appeared, your plant is officially in the vegetative stage.
Remember that cannabis plants depend on the environment to thrive so make sure the conditions are within the acceptable range. During the vegetative stage you should keep the following conditions for the best plant growth possible:
Week 3: Late Vegetative Stage
The plant starts growing vigorously this week because the roots have properly developed. By now your plant should be growing exponentially so you should be providing enough nitrogen.
Also make sure that you provide a little bit of phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients to allow your plant to develop foliage, stems, and branches as it should, and adjust the lights accordingly so you don’t burn the plants. You can use full-strength nutrients at this point. Adjust the lights accordingly so you don’t burn the plants.
Week 4: Late Vegetative Stage
The plant is a month old now. It will grow faster than you can control it. Thus, it makes sense to train them using several techniques. The best technique by far is Low-Stress Training (LST) but you can also top the tips to produce several colas.
Autoflowers respond very well to both FIMing and Topping if done properly, so make sure that you don’t do it too aggressively! Depending on how your plant grows (and if needed), it’s a good idea to provide support with a trellis net or bamboo stakes so you keep your plants in the upright position it doesn’t fall over.
Week 5 – Pre-Flowering
If everything went well your plant should be ready to enter the pre-flowering stage. Some plants will start showing pistils at this point but others will just show signs that they’re about to enter pre-flower, such as the flowering sites turning light-green. The pre-flowering stage happens any time from week 4 to 5. Some may not, but they are super close.
When dealing with non-feminized genetics, growers have to carefully sex their plants as soon as possible during pre-flowering. Those that show signs of male flowers are immediately removed to prevent pollination that would send female flowers to seed. Thankfully, feminized genetics are made possible by “selfing” the parent specimen. The result? Plants that only emerge as females. This saves casual home growers a lot of work during this crucial stage of the growing cycle.
If this is the case, you should switch to flowering nutrients if the plants are responding positively after receiving nutrients all this while.
Week 6: First Half of Flowering
Once your plants have grown a good amount of white hairs, they’re in the proper flowering phase now. During this stage you should add nutrients that include a lot more potassium and phosphorous compared to nitrogen. Depending on the specific strain you’re growing, it’s possible that your plants start stretching a lot so you will have to adjust the lights so that the stretching doesn’t go out of control.
Just like in the other growth stages, you should adjust the conditions; During the first half of the flowering stage the humidity and temperature should be the following:
The conditions mentioned in the table aren’t obligatory, you will still be able to grow and enjoy your harvest but following these conditions will result in the best harvest possible because these conditions allow your plants to perform their basic processes such as photosynthesis and transpiration as they should.
She was very easy. She grew quite chunky considering she’s a sativa, but the effects did feel sativa. She has a lovely taste.
Week 7: First Half of Flowering
By week 7 your plant should be starting to fatten up the buds so you’ll see proper buds now. Obviously, they won’t be very big but will start to take form, you’ll also see pistils keep shooting everywhere, and adding nutrients will increase the rate of growth.
Stretching will also stop now since the plant focuses all its energy on the flowers so there’s no need to worry about space now, just make sure your plant gets the nutrients it needs and the conditions are on point. Despite seeming ready, your plant needs at least 2-3 weeks so be patient, if the flowers look good now imagine how they’ll be when they’re actually ready!
Week 8: Second Half of Flowering
Week 8 marks the second half of the flowering stage, this means that the buds will become fatter and denser during week 8. Make sure you don’t try to use any training techniques at this point since the plant has already come too far and you may end up stressing it.
Even if your plant has already developed too many amber pistils just let it be; Some strains get amber pistils before it’s time to harvest and it’s completely normal, the standard practice for harvesting is to see the color of the trichomes, so keep an eye on the color of the pistils at all times. Remember that for the second half of flowering the conditions should be the following:
These growing conditions will ensure your buds fatten up as they should and that they don’t have a lot of water in them, which will result in better yields after drying so, if possible, make sure the humidity and temperature are within the ranges mentioned in the table above.
Week 9: Second Half of Flowering
The second half of the flowering stage marks the week before the last, by now the majority of the hairs that were once white should be orange or brown and there should be lots and lots of trichomes all over the buds and surrounding foliage. If everything goes as it should, you can stop feeding nutrients at this point.
You can even start flushing to remove extra chemicals. There’s no need to flush if you’re growing organically though. The buds will display a mix of clear and white trichomes. Some plants may be slow and you may not see cloudy trichomes at all. If that’s the case there’s no need to worry, this depends from strain to strain, you’ll see the trichomes changing colors once it’s time.
Week 10: End of Flowering and Ripening
On week 10 the trichomes change colors from clear to cloudy and sometimes to amber. You’ll also notice the fan leaves turning yellow. You can flush again this week. Flush as much as you can to remove all the chemicals.
Flushing is also done to make the buds taste better when you smoke them, so don’t skip this part. Once you have finished flushing, your plant is ready for harvest.
Week 11: Harvest
Most growers harvest their autoflowers during week 11. You’ll notice that the pistils are a lot more red and amber in color compared to white pistils. Also, the majority of the trichomes should be cloudy and a good amount starting to turn amber.
If you have a jewelers loupe or a microscope, wait until at least 70 percent of the trichomes are cloudy. If you see too many clear trichomes, you need to wait a couple more days until they’re cloudy. And remember, after harvesting your plants, you will still have to do the following:
These processes can be done in several ways but they should be done if you want to have the best results possible; These processes will not only make your buds smoke better but will also result in better tasting and smelling buds!
Top notch strain. Easy to grow and produces prolific flowers. I got 6 ozs. of great medicine from her. I will definitely grow this strain again.
3. In Conclusion
As you can see, it takes about 10-11 weeks for an autoflower to complete its entire life cycle. Some autoflower seed to harvest time may take a week more or you might even harvest them a little earlier, but it all depends on the type of container, nutrients, light schedule, and type of lighting you’ve used. Even commercial growers can harvest their amazing plants just after week 11. However, some growers prefer to harvest only during weeks 12-13 so that most of the pistils turn amber. Buds that are amber produce a body-high similar to an Indica, so you can keep this in mind before you cut down the buds.
So, as you can see, it takes about 11 weeks for an autoflower from seed to harvest! You may require a week more or less, but this is an average estimate for an autoflower seed to harvest cycle.
Cannabis Time-Lapse Photography Videos
Today I would like to feature the following incredible marijuana growing time-lapse photography and videos produced by fuzzygrow.
A huge thanks to fuzzygrow for contributing these uniquely valuable time-lapse videos to the marijuana growing community!
New Life – The birth of a marijuana plant from seed
This time-lapse video spans 5 days, a frame was taken every 6 minutes. 24fps .
Watch two seeds sprout and grow their first two sets of leaves. The plant on the left is Super Lemon Haze and the one on the right is strain Tijuana.
Marijuana seeds first sprout two smooth “baby” leaves known as cotyledon leaves. These leaves were already formed in the shell. When the seed is put in warm wet conditions, the seeds “wake up” and the seed splits open. The white tip that first emerges becomes a root and grows downward.
The cotyledon leaves unfurl and start gaining height above the soil. You can see the first “true” (wrinkled) set of marijuana leaves nestled in between the cotyledons at first, and as time goes on these spread out to catch as much light as possible.
You may notice the young seedlings making slow circular movements. As far as we know, all plants do this while they grow and this movement is known as nutation, circumnutation, or nutational movement .
While we don’t fully understand the mechanism behind this movement, some scientists speculate that it was developed as a way for the plant to “explore” and find the best direction to grow, since even though plants are rooted, the difference of even a couple of inches can make a huge difference in the survival of the plants.
Recovery of Topped Marijuana Plant & Formation of 2 New Colas
This time-lapse video spans 7 days
In this video, a young marijuana plant is topped and you can watch as the two growth tips from the top node (quick picture cheat sheet explaining nodes & growth tips) turn into the two new main colas.
After the plant is topped, notice that not just the top two, but all the growth tips on the plant begin growing out (the plant is becoming more bushy). This is due to a hormonal response that happens in the plant when the main cola is damaged.
Watch as the two new main colas at the top get wider and taller, while their connection to the base of the trunk is strengthened and thickened to support their growth.
Young plant burned by Pyrethrum while lights are on & recovery
This time-lapse video spans 2 weeks, a frame was taken every 6 minutes. 30 fps.
This one is a little bit hard to watch as this Purple Haze seedling is hit by a strong insecticide (Doktor Doom) around 0:31 to combat spider mites.
The insecticide is sprayed while the lights are on, and unfortunately this combination of insecticide + light burns the young plant. You can see the plant struggles to recover for nearly the rest of the video.
I sprayed Dr. Doom on this young plant to try to combat spider mites. Plant is under a 42w CFL. The main apex was also burned which stopped growing but eventually a new one formed off center. New leaves sprouted just above the cotyledons as well.
Don’t spray pyrethrum-based products with any grow lights still on!
Pyrethrum is an ingredient in certain insecticides. In this case it came from Dr. Doom. Pyrethrum is very photoreactive so because it was sprayed with the lights on it created a bad situation on the plant as you can see. It almost appears to burn it. The growth was very gnarly for awhile afterwards!
You can see the extreme stress the Pyrethrum combined with grow lights has put on the young plant.
Although this plant recovers, you can see how badly the burns stunted its growth, and you’ll notice that the regrowth that follows is a bit odd as the plant “ditches” the burnt parts and then gets back into the swing of things.
Growing with ScrOG Time-Lapse
Watch as these young plants are trained to fill up a ScrOG net. ScrOG stands for “Screen Of Green” and refers to using a “screen” (usually made of string) to force plants to grow into a flat canopy.
Seedling & Vegetative Stage
The above time-lapse video spans 40 days of growth. A frame was taken every 6 minutes. 50fps .
Once the screen has been “filled out” with vegetative growth, the grower will switch to the flowering stage. The ScrOG technique is used to get better yields out of your indoor grow lights, which are most effective when plants are kept as close to the lights as possible. The ScrOG technique makes it so that when buds start forming, the lights shine directly on the buds and fatten them.
You just saw these plants fill up the ScrOG net in the last video. Now watch as the colas from these scrogged plants fatten up throughout the flowering stage until harvest time.
Why do marijuana plants seem to “breathe” in time-lapse photography?
Why do the leaves begin to droop down and then suddenly spring back up?
All plants do that. It partly has to do with their Circadian rhythms. Plants must put energy into keeping cell walls rigid to hold up the leaves. Kinda like using their “muscles”. With plants like cannabis, the leaves tend to “rest” at night and “perk up” when they “think” the sun is going to come out.
The plants also wilt when they’re thirsty and perk up after being watered.
View all of fuzzygrow’s time-lapse videos here:
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Bonus Marijuana Time Lapse Videos
These have been circulating around the internet for a while, but if you haven’t seen them before, you don’t want to miss these bonus marijuana time-lapse videos.
Incredible series of moving time-lapse videos of growing cannabis plants, set to music
Growing Marijuana Time Lapse – 80 days in 45 seconds
Sweet And Sour Headband Marijuana Time Lapse Grow – seed to harvest
Seedling to Harvest – Marijuana plant grown naturally without any plant training
65 Nights in 2 minutes
Adding ladybugs to kill small case of spider mites
3 Months in 40 Seconds
For fun! – Morning Sunrise over Cannabis plant timelapse video – very pretty
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